ONE DAY ON THE NORTH FORK

I have fond memories of trips to “wine country.” For me, that always meant California. Our last trip there was seven years ago. And while I long to return, there’s another wine country right under my nose. The North Fork of Long Island. Until recently, we’d been to the North Fork for quick trips, but we couldn’t stay for long…certainly not long enough to go wine tasting…due to whiney kids. Perhaps one day they’ll drop the “h” and be much more pleasant company on these grown-up trips.

This month, we celebrated our 15-year wedding anniversary. A few weeks prior, my husband asked where we should go to dinner to mark the occasion. I replied, “I was hoping we could do something a bit more special.” I was secretly thinking it would be wonderful to visit the North Fork but wanted to hear what he suggested. A few minutes later he said, “Maybe we could get a babysitter and go wine tasting on the North Fork.” I suppose our mutual love of fermented grapes is one of the many reasons we got hitched in the first place.

So we made it happen. It really was the most perfect day. Even the weather cooperated. In order to enjoy the day, it requires proper planning and timing. And a big key is to NOT plan too much. You don’t want to be rushed. If your desire is to have one amazing day, knowing you can’t do it all, consider this your official North Fork guide.

Summary of the Day
As an agenda, we left the Hamptons at 10 am. Once on the North Fork, we started the day with a few pastries from Lombardi’s Love Lane Market (more on that in a bit) before wine tasting. We arrived at the first of three tastings at 11 a.m. It’s best to allow about an hour for each tasting. If a larger group and/or you plan to linger, you can certainly stay longer.  Then, of course, factor in your travel time when booking subsequent appointments. All places we visited offer food, so you don’t have to eat before the first tasting. I would recommend eating during at least one appointment to absorb the alcohol. Otherwise, you may not make it past the first spot. We nibbled at each winery so we didn’t have to stop at a separate place for lunch. After our third winery, we headed to a restaurant for oysters on the half shell (a must on the North Fork) and cocktails, and then onto an early dinner at 5 pm. We were back in the Hamptons at around 7:45 pm. 

Getting Around
If you can afford the splurge and don’t have a designated driver, I would suggest hiring a car service. It’s the responsible thing to do and allows everyone to enjoy tasting wine without taking unnecessary risks. We used Delux Transportation and were extremely happy. The car was clean, the driver professionally dressed, masked, and so accommodating. He used Waze and got us to every stop as quickly as possible. He didn’t speak unless we spoke to him…he just let us be and always asked, “Where’s the next stop?” They provided an hourly rate, tip was discretionary (and we were thrilled to tip due to the amazing service), and it was okay to go over or under our original time so long as we met the agreed upon minimum. 

Love Lane Kitchen in Mattituck

Fueling Up for the Day
Most tasting rooms open at 11 a.m. so it’s best to plan your first appointment then. If you’d like to enjoy a nice breakfast beforehand, I’d suggest Mattituck. For sit down dining, Love Lane Kitchen serves breakfast and lunch daily and is a quaint café serving traditional breakfast foods like eggs, pancakes, French toast, sausage and bacon. They also have oatmeal and yogurt with granola for something a bit healthier. Reservations are not accepted for breakfast or lunch, but they will take your number and text you when your table is ready. In the meantime, you can enjoy walking through the small downtown area. If you’d like something on the go for breakfast and/or a picnic later, just go one door down from Love Lane Kitchen to Lombardi’s Love Lane Market. We picked up pastries to go. But you can also order ahead if you know your plans. They have just about anything your heart desires. Their catering menu is here, and they make wonderful charcuterie for nearby picnicking if that tickles your fancy. 

VINEYARDS

A few notes before I get to the actual wineries we visited. All three wineries we visited required an appointment, as is the case with most. They’re understanding if you don’t arrive at the exact time, as long as their booking schedule can accommodate you. I recommend visiting during the week if you’re able. Weekends, especially those with great weather, are very busy for North Fork wine tasting. Prior to this, our last wine tasting trip was to Napa and Sonoma, where some places offered sit down tastings and others required you to find yourself a spot at the counter. On the North Fork, all of our experiences were sit-down service, which we really loved. It allows you to truly relax and enjoy the wines without losing track of what you’re tasting or requiring someone to pour your next glass. I was so impressed by the thought and care that went into presenting the wine offerings. (Photos ahead.)

Many places are kid-friendly and pet-friendly. Indoor and outdoor seating are often both offered. Private tasting rooms are offered at some. Check with each for options.

Macari Vineyards
Our first stop was Macari Vineyards in Mattituck. It was established in 1995, although the family has owned the 500-acre property for over 50 years. 180 acres are vines. They raise their own cattle and make their own compost, which is used for fertilizer. 

Brianna, Guest Relations Manager, was the master of hospitality from the time our reservation was booked until we bid farewell. It was also a pleasure to meet the General Manager, Paulina. Both made us feel extremely welcome and even shared their favorite restaurants and oyster shacks on the North Fork. 

Wine & Charcuterie in the Private Tasting Room

It was such a treat to enjoy time in the Private Tasting Room with doors that opened onto the patio and the vineyard. That said, we would have been just as thrilled to have been seated outside on the covered porch. The photos of this oasis among the vines speak for themselves. Brianna explained the three wines we were tasting, but just in case we forgot, there was a handy menu with tasting notes for each. The charcuterie board was fit for a king (and queen) with a variety of cheese, our favorite fig spread, meats, olives, almonds, hummus, crackers and baguette. Wines for the tasting will vary depending on when you go and the number of wines you try. 

The Barrel Tasting Room
(photo courtesy of Macari Vineyards)

There are a few options for tastings depending on the size of your group, your desired experience, and your budget. For larger groups and enhanced experiences, there’s the Private Tasting Room as mentioned, the Barrel Tasting Room, and in the Fall, parties of two to six guests will be able to book a cozy bungalow from 1-4 pm to include a gourmet lunch prepared by Chef Lauren Lombardi. 

Inside a Bungalow
(Photo courtesy of Macari Vineyards)

We loved the 2017 Dos Aguas and the 2019 Sauvingon Blanc Lifeforce so much that we went home with a few bottles.

Lieb Cellars
The outdoor tasting patio of Lieb Cellars is part of its charm and authenticity. The design lover in me first spotted the painted steel barn with red doors. We were thrilled to relax under the striped awning that kept us shaded and cool while enjoying the view of the beautiful organic farm across the street. Pick a spot, and a friendly server like ours, Dana, will be around to discuss the wines and help you make a selection.

We chose the Estate Wine Tasting for a mix of reds and whites. Their whites are crisp and reflective of Long Island wines. Their reds, aged in Hungarian oak, allow the varietals to really show off. I am not a wine expert by any stretch, but the one thing I noticed when tasting Lieb wines were the aromas. Without making an effort, the wines made such a pleasant introduction before even touching my lips. I enjoyed the blossom of their Pinot Blanc and the vanilla and cedar of the Chardonnay. We also tried their Bridge Lane Sauvignon Blanc since that is my favorite varietal during summer months. I loved it so much that we went home with a bottle. 

Rose Hill Vineyards

The tasting patio of Rose Hill Vineyards is tucked behind their rustic and charming Farmhouse Inn. If you’re looking for an overnight stay, I’d recommend investigating. The outside is beautiful, and the photos of the rooms look just as wonderful, although I didn’t personally tour the inside.

Your view for the afternoon overlooks the vineyard and Moroccan tents, which you may sit under to enjoy your wine if you choose. Tunes with a cool European vibe were playing during our visit, causing me to question whether I was in the North Fork or Provence.

We each ordered a different flight so we could experience more of the wines. One each of the Classic Flight and the New Release Flight. The Charcuterie Board paired well with the wines. As someone who loves entertaining guests, I was so impressed by the way each vineyard presented their wines. How adorable are these rustic metal trays holding the tasting glasses?

Of the wines we tasted, my favorites were the 2019 Sparkling Rosé and the Non-Vintage Red Blend (my husband’s favorite, too). As a special treat, since we enjoyed the Non-Vintage Red Blend so much, our server brought us the Wild Bore Doe, a full-bodied Bordeaux blend with grippy tannins. Of course you can purchase wines in their delightful shop, along with a bag of North Fork Potato Chips if you’d like (yes, I’m giving you a tip here!)

RESTAURANTS (and more)

We limited our tastings to three vineyards, and I think that’s a great number. Perhaps we could have handled one more, but we had other things to check off our wish list. As you know, I love to cook. And visiting farm stands is one of my favorite things to do during summer months out east. So on the way to Greenport, we stopped by Sang Lee Farms Farm Stand in Peconic. I’m going to go out on a limb and say this is the best farm stand on the North Fork. It’s certainly my favorite North Fork farm stand. I picked up a few items, one being seasonal squash blossoms. They have absolutely anything and everything you could want from the garden, and the staff is so incredibly friendly and helpful.

For oysters and dinner, we decided to head to Greenport. If you want your pick of outstanding restaurants, all within walking distance of one another, this is the place to be. The town sits along the water and is filled with charming old homes and shops, making for spectacular views in almost any spot. After dinner, you can walk to get ice cream at Ralph’s of Greenport. If you have children or want to pretend to be a kid for a few moments, take a ride on the Antique Carousel near the marina. At just $2 per ride, it’s the best ticket in town. Or just marvel at the beautiful yachts at the dock.

Little Creek Oysters
No visit to this area is complete without North Fork oysters. If you like oysters, that is. We could eat raw oysters All. Day. Long. Because we had dinner reservations at 5 pm, we stopped at one dozen each while enjoying these slimy creatures, the gorgeous view, cocktails, and the laid-back, authentic vibe of Little Creek Oysters.

If you’re feeling adventurous, you can shuck your own oysters for $1 discount per shell. They provide the gloves and knife. We opted to relax and forego the savings. We eat oysters a lot, as we often take our kids to happy hour in the city and share a few dozen. So when I say these were the BEST and MOST DELICIOUS oysters I can ever remember having, that’s saying a lot. 

We saw a few men bringing in fresh oysters while there. Since everything is fresh, the menu will change based on the season and availability. We ordered a sampler platter which had two each of six different oysters. We attempted to rank our favorites. And while we were able to describe different notes of each, it was difficult to call a winner. We also enjoyed a few cocktails…a blood orange margarita and an uber-refreshing mule.  Many guests also ordered grilled oysters, as they’re apparently a fan favorite. They are on our list for next visit.

The great news about oysters is that while they are beyond delicious, they’re not filling. So after you’ve enjoyed a dozen or two as an appetizer, you’re still ready for a meal. I’d recommend two options, which are in walking distance from Little Creek. They’re both outstanding and a real treat.

Noah’s
Situated along Front Street, we truly enjoyed the outdoor seating at Noah’s. And the food is fabulous! I watched so many dishes come out of the kitchen, and each one looked more amazing than the previous! We decided to share a few small plates and enjoyed Tuna Tartare, Fried Squash Blossoms (stuffed with goat cheese), and Filet Mignon Sliders. I recommend them all. You know I love my margaritas, and the Cucumber Margarita did not disappoint. For dessert, we shared Key Lime Pie and Cinnamon Sugar Beignets. I could have ordered seconds of both and not felt one ounce of guilt. Our server was fantastic and was spot on with her recommendations when we had difficulty making decisions.

The Frisky Oyster
The Frisky Oyster is not easy on the wallet, but if you can spring for it, it’s definitely a spot you should visit at least once. 

We actually didn’t eat at the Frisky Oyster on our wine tasting date. It was closed, and we were beyond thrilled to have an excuse to return. So three days later, on our actual anniversary, we did so with our kids. And they, too, are huge fans of this hot spot. We dined outside, but the inside is super sexy and moody, so don’t fret if outdoor seating isn’t available.

I’d read somewhere that the bartender was a genius, and whoever wrote that might be right. The Frisky Oyster might have the best cocktails on the North Fork. I love my tequila, so I had to try the Watermelon Cilantro Margarita and the Beaver Fever. Both were just what the doctor ordered. For appetizers, it was Little Ram Oysters on the Shell, Oysters Friskarella, and Tuna Spring Rolls. We also shared Crescent Farm Duck Breast and Tempura Soft Shell Crab. Kids shared the Frenched Chicken Breast. Dessert was sincerely divine with Key Lime Pie and Summer Berry Crumble. There wasn’t a crumb left.

ADDITIONAL SUGGESTIONS

We could not have asked for a more perfect day! Before you depart to plan your trip to the North Fork, I want to leave you with a few other spots that remain on our list. We didn’t get to them (that’s my disclaimer), but we’re looking forward to a future trip to experience more. They were recommended by people we trust, so I’m confident you’ll enjoy them if they make your itinerary.

Vineyards (not visited)
Croteaux Vineyards (all rosé)
Jamesport Vineyards
RG | NY
Sparkling Pointe

The town of Greenport

Restaurants (not visited)
American Beech (restaurant, bar, lounge bar)
Anker
Duryea’s Orient Point
The Halyard

Indoor Cocktail Bar (& Pizza)
Brix & Rye

Overnight Stay (have not actually spent the night)
Farmhouse Inn at Rosehill Vineyards
Jamesport Vineyards
The Menhaden
Sound View Greenport

Tuna Spring Rolls from The Frisky Oyster

The only regret we have is not exploring the North Fork sooner and more often. We will definitely return again and again, and my hope is that this North Fork travel guide will grow. If you have been or plan to go in the future, please drop me a line and let me know your favorite places. Enjoy!

xoxo,
Jennifer