SKI SEASON: PARK CITY GUIDE

From the Top at Deer Valley Resort

Our annual pilgrimage to Deer Valley/Park City is upon us. We depart next week. Some people ask why we go to the same place every year, and the answer is because the good parts are worth revisiting, AND there’s so much to do that there’s always something new to discover. This past weekend, we were fortunate enough to have friends invite us to ski with them in Upstate New York. It was a wonderful day and a perfect warm up for the upcoming week of fun out west. I’m looking forward to this year’s trip because the kids are excited about staying in ski school all day, which means Mom gets to have a guilt-free day of fun. And have I ever mentioned that Deer Valley Resort actually has great food on the mountain? You don’t have to settle for chicken fingers and greasy pizza, so make a day of it and enjoy world class skiing and a nice lunch with a cocktail (just one, though!). There’s even a pho bar at one of the lodges! And Veuve Clicquot even has a chic and swanky après-ski lounge that’s located near Empire Lodge on the mountain. Stop by for a glass of bubbly and to toast your toes by the cozy fire.

If you haven’t yet booked your trip out west, don’t fret, as there’s still plenty of time left in the season. I’ve often skied on April Fool’s Day. The best part about going to Utah is that you could actually fly out in the morning and be on the slopes by the afternoon since there are many direct flights to the Salt Lake City airport. There are two major areas on different sides of the mountain range. The Park City area is on the north side and consists of Deer Valley Resort and Park City Mountain Resort, the latter which is now connected by lifts to The Canyons to form one mega ski mountain. On the south of the mountain range are Alta, Snowbird, Solitude, and Brighton. If you are a skier, Deer Valley Resort and Alta are exclusively for skiers, i.e. no snowboarders allowed. If you're looking for more luxurious hotels and lodging options, skiing/snowboarding during the day, and plenty to do at night, e.g. restaurants and shopping, then it's best to stay in the Park City area. We've always stayed there, hence the reason for my focus.

Night Lights Outside the St. Regis Deer Valley

WHERE TO STAY
The St. Regis Deer Valley is beyond magnificent for multiple reasons. It's now part of the Marriott family of hotels (was formerly Starwood), so use those points and book a room for a few nights on the house. Needless to say, it's ski in/ski out, and there is a Jans Ski Shop on the bottom floor, right near the ski butler, where you can rent everything you need for a fun day on the mountain. Store your skis and boots overnight, and in the morning, your boots will be warm, someone will even help you put them on, and your skis will be waiting for you outside. And forget having to stand in line to purchase a lift ticket, as they are also sold right there in the hotel and can be charged to your room.

Expect everything else you'd expect at a hotel with the St. Regis name: a spa, butler service for your room, a kids' club (supervision is required), special activities in high season such as musical performances and a ballroom full of bouncy houses for the kids. Breakfast is served at RIME, or there is an elaborate "oatmeal bar" just off the main lobby. For apres-ski, there is a dangerous (housemade) hot cocoa bar with toppings like fresh whipped cream, marshmallows, and toffee bar crunch. My kids probably each eat three bags of marshmallows during their stay. Mom might, too! Champagne sabering is complimentary every evening at 5:30 pm. And of course, the St. Regis Bar has indoor and outdoor seating, with heat lamps, so you can watch skiers complete their last runs of the day. For dinner, the food is wonderful at both RIME (fine dining and reservations suggested) and the St. Regis Bar & Lounge (more casual menu and atmosphere and is first come, first served). There is a ridiculous and indulgent lunchtime buffet (with an equally ridiculous price), but RIME also offers a reasonably priced á la carte menu. If you choose to dine or shop in downtown Park City, a complimentary shuttle service is provided. After dinner, enjoy assembling and roasting s’mores by the outdoor fire pit. It’s all fun and games until you have a 5-year-old holding a flaming stick…so just watch closely because the marshmallows may catch fire!

S’mores After Dinner at the St. Regis

To get to the hotel, one must valet their car at the base of the resort and take a short and scenic funicular ride up to the hotel. This is a special treat for kids and adults alike. 

View of Deer Valley from the St. Regis Funicular

There are also MANY terrific condominiums near the base of Deer Valley Resort. Many are in walking distance, and there is a complimentary shuttle that picks you up outside of your building and drives you to the base. We have stayed at a few in the past, and it's truly convenient.

SKIING/SNOWBOARDING
Deer Valley Resort is top notch for skiing. With plenty of runs for every level of skier, you can rest assured that the entire family will have a wonderful day. The food on the mountain is also superb. Empire Lodge can give the best local chefs a run for their money and is quite a treat for foodies who also love to ski. Fresh grilled salmon over salad and pulled pork sandwiches, along with staples like bratwurst and burgers (but really good ones) are on the menu. Silver Lake Lodge features a pho bar in addition to typical offerings.

Pho Served for Lunch at Silver Lake Lodge

Snowboarders, head over to Park City Mountain Resort or The Canyons (now connected by lifts) to get your groove on!

SKI SCHOOL/DAYCARE
Deer Valley Resort can't be beat for ski school and daycare options. Children are registered by age and ability (according to their parents) but on their first day are assessed and moved around to ensure they are with skiers on the same level, providing the best possible group lesson experience. Groups are small and typically 3-4 children per instructor. Perhaps a little larger (5-6) for older kids. For the youngest skiers (age 3), a one-hour private lesson is given, and then the children are taken to a daycare on steroids for the remainder of the day. It's a huge facility that has indoor playground equipment that rivals that of some outdoor playgrounds, tricycles, arts and crafts, movies, and even cots to allow them to nap. They also have outdoor snow playtime in addition to their hour of skiing in the morning. There is a daycare only option for those who aren't yet ready to hit the slopes. 

Ski School at Deer Valley

There is typically a ski school near the base of every resort. The Canyons school convenes right outside of Grand Summit Lodge, and rentals are there, as well. For those too young to ski, there is a daycare center at Grand Summit Lodge. The children take the gondola up the mountain to play in the snow for a bit. The staff is extremely caring and competent, but it's a much smaller facility than the one at Deer Valley. Lunch is provided, and the children are able to nap, as well.

WOODWARD PARK CITY
For a break from the slopes and to give your wallet a break (did I mention that lift tickets out west are ridiculously expensive?), the entire family can enjoy a few hours at Woodward Park City. This outdoor fun park was formerly known as Gorgoza Park and was closed last season for renovation. They reopened for the 2019-2020 season better than ever. Now with seven lanes for tubing, you can reserve your 2-hour tubing time in advance, beginning as early as 10 am. It's a short drive from Deer Valley and Park City. Children over the age of 5 can race down the large and the small hills. Children 3 and 4 years old are restricted to the smaller hill, but they won't feel slighted. The advantage of the small hill is that the line is a lot shorter. On both hills, groups can hold onto each other's straps and fly down the hill together. Both hills have three or four distinct lanes, so there's no risk of of colliding with other parties. Visit their website for activities beyond tubing. There’s so much more to do!

Tubing at Woodward Park

UTAH OLYMPIC LEGACY FOUNDATION
Park City was home to the 2002 Winter Olympics. To commemorate this, the Utah Olympic Legacy Foundation has a few locations where you can pretend to be an Olympian or just have a great time with winter adventure. Experience bobsledding at Utah Olympic Park. Ice skating is available at Utah Olympic Oval. Be sure to check their website for public skate hours. For more tubing and mini snowmobiling, visit Soldier Hollow. One tip for tubing here: Be sure to call in advance to ensure the lanes have been groomed because without that, you’ll be pushing yourself down the hill. Visitors age 3 and up can enjoy two-hour tubing sessions. Weekday sessions are typically from 4-6 pm, while Friday through Sunday offers a larger window from 12-8 pm.

MIni Snowmobiles at Soldier Hollow

EVENING HORSE-DRAWN CARRIAGE RIDES
My animal-loving “baby” couldn’t stop talking about this experience! While it was a bit cold and windy the night we went, the blankets kept us warm and the spectacular view made it all worth it! Park City Sleigh Rides offers 30-minute sleigh rides courtesy of stunning Clydesdale horses. Rides begin at 5:30 pm, and they do book up well in advance, so plan ahead so you don't miss out. The meeting point is just outside The Grand Summit Lodge at The Canyons Resort. Valet parking is available for guests not staying at the lodge.

Beautiful View During Our Carriage Ride

DOGSLEDDING
Rancho Luna Lobos is about a 20-minute drive from Main Street in Park City if the roads are not snowy. This is a unique and fantastic experience! This family owned and operated company provides a one-hour sled ride for groups of 1-3 people (perhaps 4 if the children are small) or two 30-minute sled rides through Utah's back country. They really do say, "Mush!" One person can even stand behind the sled with the guide and yell it out for him! The dogs absolutely love their jobs! These tours book out well in advance and oftentimes sell out for the season a month before its end, so reserve in advance. 

Sled Dogs at Rancho Luna Lobos

ICE CASTLES
Ice Castles is an award-winning frozen attraction located in six cities across North America. Lucky for you, there’s a location just outside of Park City. The experience is built using hundreds of thousands of icicles hand-placed by professional ice artists. The castles include breathtaking LED-lit sculptures, frozen thrones, ice-carved tunnels, slides, fountains and much more. If you’d like to make the experience more memorable, Rocky Mountain Outfitters offers sleigh rides to the Ice Castles.

GRUB
The great thing about food in Park City is that there are plenty of fabulous restaurants. During peak weeks, reservations at the hottest spots fill quickly, so make plans at your favorites as far in advance as they will allow. I'm listing a few of my favorites here, but again, you almost can't go wrong. One tip, regardless of the restaurant you choose: Kids are exhausted after a long day of skiing or tubing, especially if you've traveled across time zones. So make dinner reservations for around 5:30 or 6 pm. You also probably want to consider dining at your hotel a few nights just to make it easier.  

Main Street, Downtown Park City

Chimayo offers Southwestern cuisine courtesy of Executive Chef, Arturo Flores, who never disappoints. In a casual and vibrant, yet also warm atmosphere, the margaritas are refreshing after a long day on the slopes, and the cuisine will delight your taste buds. My favorite menu items are Carne Asada Brava made with Wagyu beef, the Elk London Broil, and BBQ Spare Ribs. They also have a kids menu...and we all know anything with french fries as a side will be just perfect. Did I mention the margaritas?

Chimayo Margaritas and the Scene

Firewood may be my favorite restaurant in Park City. Their slogan is, "Where wood fire brings flavor to life," and boy does it ever! You can't imagine the difference in flavor...perhaps the fact that my son inhaled his broccolini should tell you something! For appetizers, you must order the Pork Belly, and the Smoked Duck is also excellent. For an entree, the Elk Loin will make you wish you could eat elk every night of your life, and fresh fish is a lighter option but still so flavorful due to its preparation. The kids menu is a little pricey, BUT the kids will LOVE their healthy and delicious meal. It changes nightly and is not published, but three options are typically offered. Meals are complete with a protein, a vegetable/side, and ice cream or sorbet for dessert for $25. 

The Kitchen at Firewood (see the fire and wood?)

Handle is an amazing restaurant with small plates and wonderful cocktails located in Park City. Ingredients are sourced locally, and most items are organic. The menu changes frequently, but some favorites are hamachi, cauliflower, and the bavette steak with cornbread frites.

Riverhorse on Main is an amazing feast of seafood and wild game. If there is any place to be a carnivore, it’s in the mountains because wild game is spectacular. The menu rotates here…which I like because it means they prepare whatever is seasonal and fresh.

Utah is a truly wonderful place with lots to do outside of skiing if you opt for colder temps and snow for your winter vacation. And with Salt Lake City having a major airport, chances are you’ll find it easy to travel there. As I mentioned, from NYC, you can fly out in the morning and still have time to ski (or partake in other activities) in the afternoon! Ok, get off of here and start planning your trip!